CRY ME A RIVER

BATTAMBANG TO SIEM REAP

We went down to the docks and bid Mr. Tin farewell as he put us on the boat to Siem Reap.  This was not the bucolic and peaceful voyage I’d envisioned.  The boat was small and cramped with only sideways facing seats and way too many people crammed in.  Since we were packed so tightly one had to crane one’s neck to look forward.  The sun was blaring hot and the canopy on the boat was inadequate protection from it.  The trip was seven hours long as we had to stop often to let the local people deliver rice or get off the boat.  The juxtaposition of some Khmer whipping out a cell phone to call someone in a bamboo shack onshore to paddle out in a canoe to pick them up was odd to say the least.  However (and now that I’ve had my negative whine), the scenery was beautiful as we passed lovely tropical foliage (very similar to the lower St. Johns River, actually).  We saw fisherman with their wicker fish traps hauling in their morning catch.  We saw families bathing by the shore.  We saw shrimping boats made with huge bamboo poles soaring above them.  We saw beautifully intricate temples reflected in the Sankor River. 

A floating schoolhouse along the river

The floating schoolhouse

A floating church

Halfway through the trip we paused at a floating rest stop.  Some passengers bought the local food there, but Mr. Tin had warned us not to.  Most important for me was a bathroom break and I was motioned to a stall attached to the floating dock which – you guessed it – had a hole in the bottom which dropped directly down into the river (from which I’m sure the food vendors were catching fish to cook for customers!)  A German guy who was on our boat came out and declared, “Today is the day I stop eating fish!”  One thing we should have bought at the rest stop was water.  Even though we’d brought two big bottles with us, they were being drained quickly as the sun beat down on us.  For the last four hours of the trip I rode on the bow of the boat so I could face forward and move about a little.  Much more comfortable but I got I nasty sunburn on the back of my neck and pretty dehydrated.  The last hour of the trip seemed an eternity and I was seriously wilted by the time we docked.  Happily, a driver was waiting for us to take us to the Lotus Lodge where some cool limeade and Meno from Local Adventures was waiting for us. 

 

Sunset from the bell tower of our hotel

Ankor Wat from the top of the Lotus Hotel

Dining out in downtown Siem Reap

Lotus Lodge is pretty much out of the way but otherwise lovely.  After a much-needed nap and cool off period we hailed a tuk-tuk to take us to the city center.  Past a brothel disguised as a karaoke bar and down a very sketchy looking road, we passed more beautiful French colonial architecture and a picturesque riverside area with a promenade that included gardens, sculpture, and gorgeous lightposts which were carved with Angkor-like figures.  Dropped off at the night market, we found a cool alley lined with trendy restaurants.  After some shopping and bargaining we chose the Khmer Barbecue where we had an array of beef, pork, chicken and squid grilled at our table with Asian vegetables.  It was delicious even though having it barbecued at our table made us hotter than we already were.  Another hair-raising tuk-tuk ride back to Lotus Lodge and a much needed sleep.